Scottish traditions and Gaelic folklore come alive along
the Ceilidh (kay-lee) Trail. Ceilidh is Gaelic for party or
gathering, and if you listen closely you might hear the
heart-stirring music of bagpipes and fiddles echoing through
the glens of this beautiful corner of
Cape Breton Island.
Summer is a time of Celtic celebrations, and you can join in
the fun. There are Highland Games, clan gatherings and
ceilidhs, where the lively mix of traditional music, food,
and highland dancing can bring out the Scottish in anyone.
Explore the spectacular hiking trails of the Mabou
Highlands, among the most beautiful and challenging hikes on
Cape Breton Island. Discover quiet country roads and the
unspoiled, uncrowded beauty of Lake Ainslie. It's easy to
understand why so many Scottish settlers chose this valley
as their new home.
There are some special surprises along the Ceilidh Trail.
You can tour Glenora Distillery, North America's only
distiller of single-malt whisky, or enjoy the superb,
warm-water beaches of the Northumberland Strait. Explore
fascinating local museums like the Inverness Miners' Museum
and the MacDonald House Museum, or visit picturesque
villages like lovely Mabou, where the Gaelic language is
still taught in the village school.
The 107-km Ceilidh Trail is the scenic route
linking the Canso Causeway with the
Cabot Trail, with
splendid views, inland glens, and access to Lake Ainslie,
the largest natural freshwater lake in the province. The
Trail follows the western shore of Cape Breton Island
through Creignish, Judique, Port Hood, Mabou, Strathlorne
and Inverness, to join the Cabot Trail at Margaree Harbour.
The Ceilidh Trail begins in Port Hastings. From the rotary
in Port Hastings, roads spread across the island like the
fingers of a hand. Straight ahead, Trans Canada Highway 105
leads through the centre of the island, along the northern
shore of the Bras d'Or Lake, through Baddeck and on to North
Sydney and Sydney. Route 4 and
the Fleur-de-lis Trail travel
up the eastern side. Route 19, the Ceilidh Trail, follows
the western coast of Cape Breton Island to the
Cabot Trail
at Margaree Harbour.
Port Hastings, once known as Plaster Cove for the
extensive gypsum deposits that were mined there in the
1800s. Stop at the Nova Scotia Visitor information Centre to
get information about Cape Breton Island. From the rotary in
Port Hastings, roads spread across the island like the
fingers of a hand. The Ceilidh Trail, Route 19 to the left,
follows the western coast of Cape Breton Island to the Cabot
Trail at Margaree Harbour.
On Church Street, the Port Hastings Historical Museum and
Archives trace the region's interesting history through
photographs and memorabilia. History comes alive in the cozy
setting of a 100-year-old Cape Breton house overlooking the
Canso Strait. View displays such as the one on the
construction of the world's deepest man-made causeway and
the impact it made on railroading, ferrying, and the life of
the families in the area. Visit the pioneer room to see
artifacts of the past. Stretch your legs and walk up to
Plaister Cove, or sit in the shade on the farm machinery in
the back yard. Before leaving, ask to see Don Riley's
bronzed shoes and hear some Cape Breton music to set your
feet tapping'. Genealogical records available.
The 263 km Fleur-de-lis Trail begins in Port Hastings and
travels around Isle Madame. The Marconi Trail and the
Fleur-de-lis Trail, Route 22, join on the outskirts of Louisbourg. Both trails proceed into the town of Louisbourg.
At Judique North a left turn leads to the shore road, which
skirts the coast of St. George's Bay, Nova Scotia's largest
bay. At the three fishing wharves on the shore road--at
MacKay's, Pigs Cove and Little Judique Harbour--you can buy
fresh fish and lobster in season.
At Harbourville, the Chestico Museum displays local
history.
Make a small detour to your left to visit Port Hood, the county seat of Inverness, a fishing port and
service centre and the second-largest community on the Ceilidh Trail. Visitor services include a visitor
information centre, accommodations, a bank, restaurants,
stores, service stations and a public wharf. You can charter
a boat to take you to lovely Port Hood Island for a picnic
lunch or a hike. Chestico Days are held annually here in
early August.
Port Hood is known for its sandy beaches and some of the
warmest waters in Eastern Canada. Court House Beach, in the
centre of town, has a supervised swimming area and picnic
facilities. The Colindale Road, a gravel highway skirting
the shore, provides access to a number of beaches. West
Mabou Beach is one of the most popular and has a tennis
court nearby.
Route 19 continues to Mabou through farmland and
picturesque scenery of rolling hills and water. The Mother
of Sorrows Pioneer Shrine is located here in a charming
little church. The Mabou Gaelic and Historical Society
Museum, An Drochaid (The Bridge), is located in the
community and is open during the summer. The Mabou Ceilidh
and old-time Scottish picnic is held every Canada Day. Mabou
also offers accommodations, restaurants, stores, service
stations, and an art gallery. In West Mabou Family Square
Dances are held every Saturday night. Inquire locally for
information on ceilidhs and square dances held in several
locations in the county throughout the summer months. Bald
Eagles can be seen around Mabou Harbour.
The road to the left leads to Mabou Harbour Mouth and Mabou
Mines, ending at the Mabou Highlands. A number of trails
follow the coast, excellent for hiking but impassable to
vehicles. Mabou Provincial Park is located near the junction
of Routes 19 and 252.
Right off Route 19, north of Mabou, Route 252 leads through
Brook Village and Skye Glen to Whycocomagh, 29 km
away.
At Glenville, you can tour North America's only
single-malt whisky distillery, and stop at the distillery's
inn and restaurant, built around a courtyard with a brook
running through it.
Inverness, the largest community on the Ceilidh
Trail, is a fishing port and a service centre. The village
has several stores and restaurants, an excellent supervised
beach, an RCMP detachment, accommodations, an arena, a
public wharf, a hospital, a bank, a liquor store and, twice
a week during the summer, harness-racing. The Inverness
Gathering is held annually in late July. The Inverness
Miners' Museum tells of the coal-mining history of the area.
The road continues near Broad Cove, where the Broad Cove
Concert, an evening of Highland music and dance, is held
annually on the last Sunday in July.
At Dunvegan the Ceilidh Trail branches to the left
on Route 219, along the coast through Chimney Corner to join the Cabot Trail at Margaree Harbour. There are
sweeping views of the coastline and the highlands beyond, as
well as gift shops and accommodations. There are fine
beaches at Chimney Corner and Whale Cove.
By continuing along Route 19 from Dunvegan, you can take an
alternative road to the Cabot Trail, joining it at Margaree Forks.
At Strathlorne or Southwest Margaree, a right
turn off Route 19 will take you to Scotsville, 15 km
away on Lake Ainslie. The 53-km
drive--or bike trek--around this beautiful lake will provide
you with spectacular views and sightings of osprey, bald
eagles, and loons. Trout fishing, swimming at sandy beaches,
walking and hiking trails, serviced campgrounds cabins,
picnic areas and canoe rentals are just a few of the area's
attractions. The Lake Ainslie Heritage Festival is held in
early July at the MacDonald House Museum.
The first Europeans, mostly Scottish, with a few of Loyalist
background arrived on the shores of Whycocomagh in 1810. The
first settler was John MacKinnon from the Island of Tyree.
At the entrance to the provincial picnic park, at
MacKinnon's Point, is a cairn commemorating the landing of
those who adopted Whycocomagh as their new home. The village
is situated at the end of one of the golden arms of the Bras
d'Or Lakes, on Whycocomagh Bay. Its location at the head of
the waters has given the area its Mi'kmaq name.
The Mi'kmaq Indians, who christened the land, were the first
to live along the shore lands of the bay. Later, these
native people settled on new ground- now Waycobah First
Nation. Today, they continue to preserve their culture and
the ways of their ancestors. This tradition can be seen in
their leatherwork, intricate basket weaving and beautiful
beadwork.
In the years that followed the settlement of the area grew
rapidly. By 1891 Whycocomagh had a larger population than
Sydney. It was a very active port with commerce between
Sydney and the regular runs of small vessels that the
villagers called schooners facilitated PEI Trade. The
steamers, Marion and Lakeview, later came to play a colorful
part in the history of the area.
Visit the village, enjoy the scenery and the people as you
make your way to The Cabot Trail or Ceilidh Trail as you
turn left at Vi's Restaurant and take Route 395 to Lake
Ainslie and unsurpassed pastoral beauty.
Lake Ainslie is the largest natural fresh water lake in Nova
Scotia. The valley sweeps unspoiled natural beauty at a
leisurely pace. Scottish settlers inhabited the rich soil of
the surrounding lakes and the 33 mile drive or bike trek
offers unsurpassed experiences. Sightings of bald eagles,
ospreys, loons, are common as you traverse the paved highway
skirting the rippled lake. For the avid fisherman, trout
fishing is a must from the abundance of the waters. If you
feel energetic and wish to partake in a swim from a sandy
beach, that is also possible. Whether your travels bring you
to East or West Lake Ainslie, Scotsville or Kenloch, your
eyes will be enhanced by the beauty of the idyllic scenery
and the friendliness of your neighbours.